Current News

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January 2011
Andrew is now planning for his return to Mt Everest in the pre monsoon season of 2011 to achieve what he was unable to get a permit for in March this year.  With luck he will obtain the permit to achieve his dream of traversing the mountain but if that permit is not available then he will still attempt a solo, oxygenless ascent of one side of the mountain.  With a departure date of early April, stay tuned for details.

March 2010
With great disappointment, Andrew has had to announce a postponement to his plans to return to Mt Everest in the pre-monsoon season (April-May) of 2010 to complete a solo oxygenless traverse of the mountain.  Unfortunately his application for a traverse permit was not approved.  If possible, he may try again in the post monsoon season, otherwise he may have to wait until 2011.  In the meantime, Andrew has started writing his long awaited book and hopes to have it published this year.  Stay tuned for details.

January 2010

Andrew plans to return to Mt Everest in the pre-monsoon season (April-May) of 2010 to complete one final climb in his Summit 8000 project.  Having climbed all fourteen of the world’s 8000 metre mountains, his plan is to summit Mt Everest for a third time but this climb will be a traverse from Tibet to Nepal, oxygenless.  Stay tuned for further details.  You will be able to follow the progress of the expedition by logging onto Live Despatches

October 2009

Andrew's summit of Mt Shishapangma is complete as is his quest to climb all fourteen of the world's 8000 metre mountains.

His brief report from Base Camp reads:

"Summitted the true summit of Shishapangma at 5.05pm, 2nd October, with Neil Ward.
Very tough climb via a variation of the Inaki route on the north face, caught in a storm on descent with an open bivouac at 7600 metres without equipment thrown in for good measure.
Just into basecamp now, bit tired, more later. "

See the Summit 8000 page and The Fourteen 8000ers page for the complete story.

September 2009

Andrew will return to Tibet in September/October 2009 to attempt Mt Shishapangma, the last peak in his quest to climb all fourteen of the world’s 8000 metre mountains.  He will travel firstly to Kathmandu, Nepal where he will collect his store of equipment and meet up with his team; Neil Ward from Wales and Kinga Baranowska from Poland.  After a couple of days sorting climbing permits and equipment, the team will drive across the border into Tibet and commence the journey to the mountain.  They anticipate arriving in basecamp around 17 September and will commence climbing shortly after.  If the weather and mountain conditions allow, they hope to make their bid for Shishapangma’s 8013 metre summit in early October.  You can follow their progress by hitting the Live Despatches  link on this page.  Once on the Live Despatches page, you can enter your email address for automatic notification of new updates.

April 2009

Andrew has now returned to Australia after being unable to secure a climbing permit for his Shishapangma expedition. He first trekked for two weeks in the Khumbu (Mt Everest) region of Nepal for some initial acclimatisation whilst waiting for his climbing partner Hector Ponce de Leon to arrive from Mexico. At the same time he hoped that his application for a Shishapangma climbing permit would be processed but upon returning to Kathmandu found that there were ongoing permit delays this season. After waiting for another 2 weeks in Kathmandu, he and Hector decided that the time left in the season was too tight for a reasonable attempt on the mountain and that they should try again next season. The two returned home and for now Andrew is resuming his training and preparing for the post monsoon season of September/October 2009. Fingers crossed for next season! Outer Edge magazine has published a major profile of Andrew and his Summit 8000 project in its April-May 09 edition. Available now in newsagents and outdoor stores.

March 2009
Andrew departs in mid March 2009 for what he hopes will be the final expedition in his Summit 8000 quest.  If the border to Tibet is open, he will make an attempt on the Shishapangma’s true summit with climbing partner Hector Ponce de Leon from Mexico.  Andrew and Hector have previously climbed together on Everest in 2004 and Makalu in 2008.  If all goes well on Shishapangma, Andrew hopes to make a summit bid in early May and, if successful, he will then move across to the north side of Everest to attempt a solo, alpine style, oxygenless climb of that mountain.  You can follow the expedition’s progress by hitting the LIVE DESPATCHES link. 

In addition to his other charitable work with the Australian Himalayan Foundation, the Truelight Foundation and many others, Andrew was recently appointed an official ambassador of the Sir David Martin Foundation, a non-profit organisation created in 1990 by the late Governor of NSW, Sir David Martin, who had a dream of "safety, hope and opportunity for all young Australians". The Foundation is run by a team of passionate staff and volunteers who raise money to fund programs that work to better the lives of youth in crisis. Check out the valuable work of the foundation at www.sdmf.org.au

  
As a novel bit of training for his 2009 expedition, Andrew recently teamed up with Patrick Kinsella (multi sport hardman and editor of Outer Edge magazine) and Josh Caple (hardcore rockjock and professional photographer) for a quick trip up Australia’s fourteen highest peaks.  All located in the Snowy Mountains, the trio setoff on the hottest weekend on record and sweated their way up peaks which included Twynam, Townsend and of course Kosciusko.  The heatwave was so oppressive if took most of the two days to get around the 40 or so kilometres involved.  For a trip report and a more in depth story , see the April edition of Outer Edge magazine (available from 24 March 2009).
www.outer-edge.com.au 

Not happy that the venture took two days, Andrew returned to the Snowy Mountains at the beginning of March and redid the 14 peaks in a round trip of 11 hours.

January 2009

With just Mt Shishapangma in Tibet to complete his 15 year odyssey to climb all the world’s 8000 metre mountains, Andrew is now preparing for what he hopes will be his final expedition in the Summit 8000 project.  In late March he will travel to Tibet to firstly climb Mt Shishapangma and if successful will then move to the north side of Mt Everest which he hopes to climb solo and without oxygen as a grand finale for the project.  He expects to attempt to summit Shishapangma in late April or early May and to attempt the Everest ascent by the end of May.
Click here to receive LIVE DESPATCHES from this expedition Once on the despatches page, hit the ALERTS button and enter your email in the box for automatic notification of updates or log on from time to time to view the latest despatches.

June 2008

Andrew has successfully completed his ascent of Mt Makalu, 8470 metres, 5th highest mountain in the world and the 13th successful summit in his ‘Summit 8000’ project to climb all fourteen of the world’s 8000 metre mountains. The expedition suffered very cold conditions, ill health and numerous delays, including the crash of the helicopter they’d chartered to fly themselves and their equipment to basecamp. However they persevered and after avoiding severe storms that stopped other expeditions in the area, Andrew reached the summit at 11.15am on 21 May 2008. So tough were the conditions, that neither of his team mates were able to summit with him. Andrew described the climb as fantastic and the summit as one of the best he’s be on, with clear views to Everest, Lhotse and Kanchenjunga. Click here to receive LIVE DESPATCHES from this expedition Once on the despatches page, hit the ALERTS button and enter your email in the box for automatic notification of updates or log on from time to time to view the latest despatches.

March 2008

Andrew has just departed for Nepal and Tibet to attempt the last two peaks on his project to climb all fourteen of the world’s 8000 metre mountains. After a few weeks trekking in the Everest region to acclimatise, he hopes to head into Tibet to first climb Shishapangma and will then move to Nepal for the final peak, Makalu, the world’s fifth highest mountain. Click here to receive LIVE DESPATCHES from this expedition Once on the despatches page, hit the ALERTS button and enter your email in the box for automatic notification of updates or log on from time to time to view the latest despatches.

January 2008

With just two 8000 metre summits to go, being Makalu and Shishapangma, Andrew is preparing to mount a strong attack next season to climb both Himalayan giants in the one expedition. Andrew is currently putting together his team for the climbs and is seeking sponsorship to help him achieve his goal of finishing the project in 2008.

June 2007

On 24 May 2007, Andrew completed one of his most outstanding climbs with the first Australian ascent of Annapurna 1, the world’s 10th highest mountain at 8091 metres.   Despite being the first 8000 metre peak to be climbed (by the French in 1950) it has since received the least number of attempts and ascents of all the ‘8000ers’, and, due its extreme avalanche and objective hazard, has the worst death rate (1 in 2 climbers!) of all of the high peaks. 

Andrew joined with an international team of veteran high altitude mountaineers for the attempt, and despite the majority of the climbers withdrawing from the climb due to extremely difficult and dangerous conditions, reached the summit at 3.20pm with Ivan Vallejo (Ecuador) and Fernando Gonzalez (Columbia). 

Ecstatic about the ascent and greatly relieved to finish the expedition, Andrew has now returned to Australia.  In the near future he will tour the country to present a series of public audio visual presentations about the expedition. See Upcoming Public Presentations. 

He also continues to be highly sought after as a Keynote Speaker and is now taking bookings for speaking engagements.

February 2007

Andrew is gearing up for his next foray to the Himalaya on his journey to achieve Summit 8000. With his remaining summits being Makalu, Annapurna and Shishapangma Main, he hopes to attempt two of these mighty peaks in the same season. Stay tuned for more information shortly.

June 2006

Andrew has just returned to Australia from a gruelling but successful ascent of the south face of Mt Kanchenjunga in Nepal.  The world’s 3rd highest mountain at 8596 metres and located in the far east of the Himalayan chain in Nepal, Andrew climbed with a strong international team of Veikka Gustafsson, Hirotaka Tadeki, Ralf Dujmovits, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Joao Garcia.  Making their summit attempt on May 14th, the team set off from their high camp (camp 3) at 7700 metres at 4am, after a 4 hour delay due to an unexpected snow storm.  They combined with a Swiss team led by Norbert Joos, to force their way up the ‘ramp’ in deep snow conditions before moving into mixed ground under the summit buttress.  Increasing wind and cloud impeded their progress but they pressed on to finally reach the summit at 5pm.

Climbing to camp 1 on Kanchenjunga

Andrew spent just 10 minutes on top as the winds reached gale force and darkness was encroaching swiftly.  Descending in deteriorating conditions the team were unable to use their headlamps in the night due to thick cloud, and were forced to wear goggles in the blackness to protect their eyes from the gale.  Nonetheless they persevered and finally located camp 3 at 9.30pm.  With one tent destroyed and 2 others damaged by the storm, the two teams spent a miserable night but by morning the storm had abated and the climbers were able, finally, to light the stove and take in some fluid.  They descended to basecamp that same day.  Andrew described the climb as one of his hardest but most satisfying ascents, however due to the physical impact of this climb he felt unable to justify an attempt on another 8000er this season and has now returned to Australia.

Andrew’s ascent of Kanchenjunga is his 15th summit of an 8000 metre peak, a record unparalleled in Australian climbing history and equalled by on only 2 or 3 people in the world, and with 11 individual 8000 metre mountains under his belt (he has twice climbed Cho Oyu, Shishapangma Central and Everest), he has just 3 of the fourteen ‘8000ers’ to go.

June 2005

Andrew returned from a tough trip to Annapurna 1, in Nepal. Joining forces with two strong Italian teams and 2 American climbers, Andrew attempted the North face of the mountain. Infamous for its frequent avalanches on almost all routes, Annapurna lived up to its reputation, releasing a huge serac avalanche on May 18 th as the team climbed from camp 2 to camp 3 on their summit attempt. Andrew and a number of the climbing party escaped its path by diving for cover behind some other seracs around 6100 metres but four of the Italian group were hit and injured. The survivors abandoned their summit attempt and effected a rescue, however Christian Kuntner, the renowned Italian 8000 metre climber, for whom Annapurna would have been his 14 th and final summit, died from his injuries at camp 2. The others were evacuated and the uninjured climbers returned to basecamp. Andrew and Christian had climbed together on Gasherbrum 1 and 2 in 1999, as well as Kanchenjunga in 2003. Christian's extraordinary achievements in high altitude climbing as well as his vibrant personality will long be remembered by those who knew him.

Now back in Sydney, Andrew is once again highly sought after on the keynote speaking circuit and is already training for the post monsoon season, during which he will climb in Tibet, first guiding Cho Oyu with Project Himalaya, and then making an alpine style ascent of the south face of Shishapangma.

If you are interested in joining Andrew on Cho Oyu, contact info@andrew-lock.com .

September 2004

Adding to his long list of 8000 metre summits, Andrew reached the summit of Cho Oyu, the world's sixth highest peak, at 9.30am, 25th September 2004. This was officially his 10th 8000 metre summit, not including his second ascent of Everest in May this year, or his ascent of the Central Summit of Shishapangma in 2003.

Andrew on Cho Oyu's 8201 metre summit, with Everest and Lhotse behind.

Andrew has now returned to Australia where he will concentrate on his guiding business and Keynote Speaking Services over the southern summer.

June 2004

On 16 May 2004, Andrew completed his second successful ascent of Mt Everest whilst filming a documentary for Discovery Channel. He and 5 other members of his team summited the mountain via the South East ridge in what Andrew described as "perfect summit conditions" with no wind, no cloud and mild temperatures. Setting out from the South Col at 10pm he climbed through the night, filming his own and other team members by headlamp and reached the summit at 9.15am.

Andrew on the summit of Mt Everest, 16 May 2004

Whilst his own climb was completed safely and without incident, Andrew and his team mate Hector Ponce de Leon, delayed their descents to assist members of several other teams who had suffered various mishaps. Above the South Summit, Andrew donated his third bottle of oxygen to a Mexican climber whose oxygen has run out, whilst below the summit he and Hector assisted 2 other Mexican climbers who had unsuccessfully attempted the summit without oxygen and become seriously affected by Cerebral Oedema. Finally, at the Balcony at 8500 metres, he assisted a British climber who had run out of oxygen higher on the mountain. Andrew sourced yet another bottle of oxygen and took it to the struggling Brit who was then able to descend safely. Andrew finally returned to the South Col around 5pm, short on oxygen himself but well satisfied with the day's results. In all he and Hector effected the rescue of 4 other climbers on the descent from Everest's summit.

The documentary will air on Discovery Channel in Canada in November 2004 - a 6 x 1 hour mini series that captures the emotional highs and lows of climbing the world's highest mountain, as well as a close up look at the differences between successful, professional expeditions and the many others that Everest attracts. It will then go to the Discovery Channels around the world. Stay tuned... In the meantime, further details can be found on www.discover.ca and you can still read reports that were sent home from basecamp at www.algonquincollege.com/everest/ . Andrew is now preparing for his expeditions to Elbrus, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, during the remainder of 2004. For information about joining his guided expedition to Cho Oyu in September/October 2004, see the Guided Climbing and Mountaineering Expeditions page on this site or email Andrew at info@andrew-lock.com .

Andrew is now preparing for his expeditions to Elbrus, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, during the remainder of 2004. For information about joining his guided expedition to Cho Oyu in September/October 2004, see the Guided Climbing and Mountaineering Expeditions page on this site or email Andrew at info@andrew-lock.com.

In the meantime, he continues to be in demand for his Keynote Speaking services and is fully committed to the Summit 8000 project.

The Pomme D'Or, a 400 metre high ice face in Quebec, Canada. Andrew and climbing partner can be
seen as 2 small black dots, two thirds of the way up on the right side of the face

March 2004

After his February ascent of the acclaimed Pomme D'Or in Quebec, Canada - the test piece of North American ice climbing, Andrew is currently in Nepal to complete a documentary for Discovery Channel on climbing Mt Everest. Together with Ben Webster, Hector Ponce de Leon and Shaunna Bourke they intend to ascend the mountain whilst filming and completing a number of scientific and medical tests en route. For up to date progress, live reports, photos and postcards from the expedition, log onto www.algonquincollege.com/everest.

February 2004

This month Andrew is heading to Canada to meet with a team of high altitude veterans including Ben Webster and Hector Poncedeleon, where they will spend two weeks climbing and training in the Canadian wilderness before heading to Mt Everest in Nepal to shoot a documentary film for Discovery Channel. The team plans to ascend the SE ridge of Mt Everest, filming their climb to the summit.

Following that climb, he will lead a private group to Mt Elbrus, Europe's highest mountain and one of the seven summits. After that it is back to his favourite destination, Pakistan, leading a private trek to K2 basecamp.

The Himalayan post monsoon season (September - November) can expect to see Andrew returning to high altitude, to guide on Cho Oyu and to make another 8000 metre ascent. If you are interested in joining Andrew on Cho Oyu, contact info@andrew-lock.com.

January 2004

Andrew has just returned from an extended expedition in the post monsoon Himalayas. He first made an ascent of Shishapangma, 8013 metres, in Tibet, and with his 10th 8000er under his belt, he then led a commercial expedition on a climbing trek around the Annapurna circuit, including ascents of Chulu East (6558 metres) and Chulu Far East (6059 metres). In the Summer 2003 edition of Wild magazine (no 91), Zac Zaharias profiles Andrew's extensive high altitude mountaineering achievements which have culminated in him being the most successful Australian high altitude mountaineer ever. As always, Andrew is much sought after for keynote speaking engagements around the country.

For information about having Andrew as a guest speaker at your next function, contact info@andrew-lock.com.